The classic South American backpacker route from Bolivia's salt flats to Chile's Atacama Desert comes with a significant challenge that guidebooks often downplay: the border crossing itself can be chaotic, disorganized, and time-consuming.
A recent traveler's experience at the Hito Cajon border crossing reveals infrastructure problems that can add an entire day to your journey and significant stress to what should be a straightforward crossing.
When the Desert Gets Snow
The journey started going wrong when the primary border crossing to San Pedro de Atacama closed due to "snow in the desert." While it sounds implausible, the high-altitude Atacama does occasionally experience precipitation, and when it does, the poorly maintained border infrastructure shuts down.
The tour agency rerouted to Hito Cajon, describing it as "partially open." When they arrived, officials refused entry, forcing the entire group to return to Uyuni city—hours of backtracking through the desert.
The Bus "Solution"
The agency provided a hotel night in Uyuni and bus tickets to Calama, Chile, claiming buses have better luck crossing the border. The travelers departed at 4:00 AM. They didn't reach Chile until 4:30 PM—over twelve hours for what should be a few hours' journey.
How the Border Actually Works (Or Doesn't)
The crossing process itself proved surprisingly dysfunctional. The border operates one direction at a time—officials process all vehicles going from Bolivia to Chile, then switch to processing the opposite direction.
"It doesn't make any sense," the traveler noted, "but I think it's because they don't have enough employees."
While waiting for their turn, the travelers discovered something unexpected: a literal fair operating in the no-man's land between border posts. Vendors sold goods while travelers—including their bus driver—shopped for hours.
"Everyone was buying a lot of stuff, including the driver," they reported. "Every time I tried to speak with him about crossing the border ASAP he was like 'oh yeah we have to wait the second bus to come from Chile.'"
The Van Alternative
Eventually, alternative vans appeared offering passage to Calama for 150 bolivianos or 30 Chilean pesos. The travelers, out of bolivianos, borrowed Chilean currency from other tourists (repaying via Wise transfer later) and escaped ahead of their bus, which remained at the fair.
What This Means for Your Trip
If you're planning the Uyuni salt flats to San Pedro de Atacama route:
• Build in buffer time—don't book onward travel from San Pedro for at least 48 hours after your expected arrival
• Carry multiple currencies—you may need bolivianos, Chilean pesos, or USD for unexpected situations
• Check weather—unusual for the desert, but high-altitude precipitation can close crossings
• The direct San Pedro crossing may be more organized than Hito Cajon, though this needs verification from recent travelers
• Consider flying—if your schedule is tight, the Uyuni to Calama flight eliminates border uncertainty entirely
The Bigger Picture
The Bolivia-Chile border chaos reflects a broader infrastructure challenge in South American overland travel. As tourism has grown in the region, border facilities haven't kept pace. What looks simple on a map—crossing from one stunning destination to another—can involve unexpected complications.
For travelers committed to overland routes, these challenges are part of the adventure. But anyone on a tight schedule or with low tolerance for bureaucratic chaos should factor these realities into their planning.
