The classic South American backpacker route from Bolivia's salt flats to Chile's Atacama Desert comes with a significant challenge that guidebooks often downplay: the border crossing itself can be chaotic, disorganized, and time-consuming.
A recent traveler's experience at the Hito Cajon border crossing reveals infrastructure problems that can add an entire day to your journey and significant stress to what should be a straightforward crossing.
When the Desert Gets Snow
The journey started going wrong when the primary border crossing to San Pedro de Atacama closed due to "snow in the desert." While it sounds implausible, the high-altitude Atacama does occasionally experience precipitation, and when it does, the poorly maintained border infrastructure shuts down.
The tour agency rerouted to Hito Cajon, describing it as "partially open." When they arrived, officials refused entry, forcing the entire group to return to Uyuni city—hours of backtracking through the desert.
The Bus "Solution"
The agency provided a hotel night in Uyuni and bus tickets to Calama, Chile, claiming buses have better luck crossing the border. The travelers departed at 4:00 AM. They didn't reach Chile until 4:30 PM—over twelve hours for what should be a few hours' journey.
How the Border Actually Works (Or Doesn't)
The crossing process itself proved surprisingly dysfunctional. The border operates one direction at a time—officials process all vehicles going from Bolivia to , then switch to processing the opposite direction.
